From the high street to the top tier brands that adorn hip-hop idols, everyone is embracing chunky maximalist looks In the hip-hop world, customised gold chains have been a status symbol for decades In the hip-hop world, customised gold chains have been a status symbol for decades
All parents like to tease their teens about their dress sense, so when 16-year-old Poppy appears in the living room to say her goodbyes before heading off to a party, her dad can’t resist a little joke. “Who sponsored you tonight – Armitage Shanks?” he quips. Like all her friends, Poppy is wearing a surfeit of chains. They snake around her neck, her wrists and even her fingers, giving an effect not entirely dissimilar to the one favoured by Ali G, the hip-hop-loving “voice of da yoof” comedy character created in 2000 by Sacha Baron Cohen.
Like Ali, Poppy is a staunch fan of gold chains and hasn’t met one that she’d reject as being too chunky. In fact, her jewellery may well weigh almost as much as she does.
Poppy’s chains are bought inexpensively from H&M and ASOS, but at the higher end of the market, the demand for big, bold jewellery is the same – only the price tags are different. Whether they are about to close a deal, rent a private island or have just finished their GCSEs, women from all income brackets are rejecting delicate pieces such as braided bracelets and stacking rings in favour of chunky, maximalist styles whose impact can be seen from halfway across a room.
The trend is partly the result of fashion’s current love affair with the Seventies and Eighties, but is also indicative of a new exuberance sweeping through fashion which sees people wanting to express themselves in a fun, unapologetic way.
“We’ve definitely seen an uplift in sales of bold jewellery, particularly unique, one-of-a-kind pieces,” confirms Tanika Wisdom, jewellery buyer at Matches, who cites brands such as Irene Neuwirth, Dezso and Viltier as especially popular this summer. “People are becoming more comfortable buying jewellery, especially online. They like the idea that with one fabulous piece of jewellery you can completely change your look.” Despite talk of recession, Matches is still seeing strong demand at the higher end of the market, where a necklace can cost five figures. “Our customers are looking for special investment pieces, so we haven’t seen any price resistance.”
Marilyn Monroe may have opined that diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but in this bold new world of jewellery one-upmanship, diamonds aren’t always the most prized status symbol. Big rocks of the sort favoured by celebrities such as Beyoncé, Paris Hilton and Serena Williams will never go out of fashion, but in 2022, those wanting to scream their status from the rooftops are going for gold.
When luxury brands, including Chanel, Dior and Chaumet, showcased their new high jewellery collections as part of Paris Couture Week earlier this month, gold pieces were very much in evidence, including bold cocktail rings and chunky chains. This was in stark contrast to previous seasons, when gold tended to take a back seat in favour of more delicate pieces which ensured the focus was on precious stones. Winnie Harlow wearing large gold necklaces and a gold pendant belt outside the Schiaparelli show, during Paris Fashion Week
Winnie Harlow wearing large gold necklaces and a gold pendant belt outside the Schiaparelli show, during Paris Fashion Week CREDIT: Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images
Galling as it may seem to those whose budget merely extends to H Samuel, it is gold’s scarcity which is propelling it up the most-wanted chart. For centuries, gold has been used to symbolise wealth and status, as far back as Egyptian times when it was used both as jewellery and currency. Central banks and private investors have long used gold as a store of value, particularly during periods of wild currency fluctuations, when tempestuous exchange rates make financial investments a greater risk.
Gold tends to hold its value well during inflation and recession, which is why over the last 20 years its value has grown by over 500 per cent. Current global economic uncertainty has caused an upsurge in the purchase of gold coins and bars, with the result that gold is currently trading at near record prices